Arts, history, and politics converge in Civic Center Plaza

Posted by Mary on Jun 30, 2010

As travelers, it’s unfortunate that there’s only so much we can do in one day.

But guests at the City Center Hostel have one big advantage — while the hostel itself is slightly off the beaten tourist track (a good thing, I think), it’s still at the center of everything. And, as I discovered on a one-day outing from the hostel, it’s just four blocks from a hard-to-miss — but sometimes overlooked — San Francisco landmark: Civic Center Plaza.

The entire Civic Center complex encompasses just six city blocks, but I managed to fill an entire day within its confines — with more exploring left to do!

Nine major sites are here. At the center are City Hall and the tree-lined green of Civic Center Plaza. Behind those are Davies Symphony Hall, the War Memorial Opera House, and the Veteran’s Building. In front are the San Francisco Public Library, United Nations Plaza, and the Asian Art Museum, and to one side is the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium.

Grab your $1 all-you-can-eat pancakes at the hostel, walk four blocks south on Larkin Street, and find yourself at:

The Asian Art Museum

I thought I knew a thing or two about Asia — I’ve done a bit of backpacking there — but the Asian Art Museum knocked me down to size! I expected to find a museum filled with art from China and Japan, but I was overwhelmed with work — both ancient and modern — from India, Persia, Indonesia, the Himalayas, and everywhere in between.

While the second floor is predominantly art and objects from China and Japan, the entire third floor is filled with statues, steles, and artifacts reflecting the huge diversity (and commingling) of religious and cultural beliefs and practices across the continent. There are shrines with all forms of Buddha, statues of Shiva and Ganesha, a collection of krises (daggers) from Southeast Asian nations, and walls filled with jade, textiles, scrolls, ceramics, screens, baskets, and more.

The special Shanghai exhibit, on view until September 5, showcases that city’s cultural and artistic evolution from just before it opened its doors to Western influence until today. Admission to the galleries and special exhibit is $17, but you save $2 with this coupon from myBart. Students with ID pay $12.

Civic Center Plaza

The plaza was THE place to be while I was here — the United States’ World Cup victory against Algeria played live that morning on a giant screen in front of City Hall (go USA!), and when I arrived with lunch — a delicious lamb gyro from Gyro King just down the street — the Germany-Ghana game was on. Besides soccer fans, there were lunch eaters and nappers on the grass, book buyers from the library’s weekly outdoor $1 book sale, and Heart of the City Farmers Market shoppers wandering in and out of neighboring U.N. Plaza. It was so busy that there was a guy guarding the trash, recycling, and composting bins to make sure everything was thrown away properly! (Yes sir, I know the tin foil from my sandwich is recyclable.)

Other weekends, the plaza becomes home to various festivals, parades, rallies, and events — rarely a dull moment here!

City Hall

Last month, for my 48 Hours in Sacramento story, I toured the State Capitol and learned a lot about California history. So when I found out that San Francisco’s City Hall offered free tours, I had to join one! The dome of the massive Beaux Arts-style building is actually taller than the White House, and was built after the 1906 earthquake destroyed the original building and most of the city. The new City Hall and plaza were designed to draw global attention to San Francisco’s rebound from disaster — back then, it was the most prominent West Coast city, since it was the gateway to gold and fortune.

While at City Hall, I saw not one, but three wedding ceremonies! A building truly "for the people," its most famous wedding was the 1954 union of Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe. More recently, City Hall hosted California’s first gay marriages before the state’s Proposition 8 banned any marriages not between one man and one woman. Beyond the issue of marriage, Civic Center has been the site of many gay rights rallies and events over the last several decades, and San Francisco’s first openly gay supervisor, Harvey Milk, was assassinated in City Hall in 1978.

If you choose not to take a tour, it’s still worth it to walk inside and see the ornate hall and dome, as well as the art and historical exhibits in the gallery to the left of the main hall.

The San Francisco Public Library

Built after the 1989 earthquake damaged the original library (which was later restored as the Asian Art Museum next door), the public library maintains the Beaux Arts-style exterior of the surrounding buildings, with a modern interior full of (surprise!) books. But more than just books, the library also hosts art and cultural exhibits, as well as various events, performances, and film screenings. There were no special events at the time I visited, but I did see an exhibit of Japanese kites made by local children, and most of the top floor was dedicated to a showcase of artistically hand-bound books.

Also, from 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. every Wednesday, a library fundraiser is held on the front steps, where there are tables full of books for just $1 each (and if you’re anything like me, you need a new book for your next flight).

The San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Complex

I didn’t have time to go inside the Symphony Hall, Opera House, or Veteran’s Building, but I walked past each of them to admire the architecture. Tours ($5 / $3 for students) take visitors through these historic buildings — the United Nations charter was written and signed here in 1945 — every Monday, 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. on the hour.

The Veteran’s Building hosts the Herbst Theater and the San Francisco Museum of Performing Arts and Design, open daily ($5 donation requested), as well as a free gallery of contemporary art. And of course you can go to any of the three buildings (or the nearby Bill Graham Civic Auditorium) for a show! The cheapest symphony, opera, and ballet tickets start at $15; prices for concerts, lectures and other events vary. A comprehensive schedule of events can be found here.

United Nations Plaza

Ah, the farmers market! Hungry after my all-day adventure in Civic Center Plaza, I walked across the street into U.N. Plaza — home of the Heart of the City Farmers Market on Wednesdays and Sundays (and an artisan market most other days) — to buy a snack. June is the season for cherries — nearly every stall had piles of red and yellow ones — so I bought a pound of yellow Rainier cherries (my favorite fruit!) and lived happily ever after… If cherries aren’t your thing (or if they’re not in season when you come), you’ll find all kinds of vegetables, fruits, prepared foods, baked goods, popcorn, cage-free eggs, and more.

Planning your trip

It’s easy to book a stay at the City Center Hostel online, or you can do it over the phone: (415) 474-5721. The hostel offers accommodations in both private and shared rooms. Originally a 1920’s hotel, the building has unique architectural features and a private bathroom in every room.

Other suggestions for things to do and see near Civic Center Plaza include:

Orpheum Theater — Shows Broadway productions in addition to other theatrical works.

Conservatory of Music — During the school year (September - May), the conservatory puts on regular performances.

Opera Plaza — Two blocks northwest of Civic Center Plaza, find shops, restaurants, and a movie theater here.

Ananda Fuara — A wonderful vegetarian cafe on Market Street just outside Civic Center Plaza.

We also plan daily pub crawls, walking tours, and museum visits for hostel guests, which are listed on our online calendar as well as in the hostel lobby.

This story was written by Sarah Trent, the marketing and communications coordinator for HI’s Northern California hostels. When she’s not busy updating calendars and writing about hostel news, she loves frequenting taco trucks and tending her rooftop vegetable garden.