On a Mission for murals, margaritas, and a picnic in the park
Posted by Mary on Aug 26, 2010
Everything I knew about San Francisco’s Mission District I read in the New York Times or on friends’ Facebook feeds — hipster central, I’d heard, it’s THE place for Mexican food, murals, and sunshine.
Visiting the blocks surrounding Dolores Park on a Sunday in August, I was not disappointed. While an eclectic mix of cultures, foods, shops, and people seems quintessentially San Franciscan, the Mission’s mishmash offers a totally different feel from the rest of the city.
It seems warmer, brighter, hipper, artsier. Think street taquerias next to gourmet ice creameries; thrift shops beside trendy boutiques; and mural upon mural standing testament to this neighborhood’s roots.
In short, anyone who likes to eat, shop, walk, sightsee, and hang out will love the Mission.
Mission: Mission
As we step out of the 16th Street Mission BART station on a Sunday in August, I’m overtaken by three things.
First: Warmth. The Mission sits in a valley beside Twin Peaks, which means that even if the rest of the city is shrouded in fog, it’s sunny and warm here.
Second: Color. Bright reds, oranges, and greens cover the neighborhood on murals, taco stands, street vendors’ wares, and more. The district has a large Latino population, and their influence shows.
Third: Smell. Tacos and pastries, at the same time.
Bombay meets Mexico City
It not quite lunchtime, but Maryanne and I are hungry (Tacos! Pastries!). We follow our noses, but then see the sign for Bombay Ice Creamery (552 Valencia Street) and can’t resist — Indian? Ice cream?
We sample the allowed two free tastes, and settle on our flavors: Maryanne gets Strawberry Mango, and I opt for Almond Saffron. Yum! With my camera in one hand and a cone in the other, it’s hard to keep track of the sights and the drips at the same time — but I’m perfectly content being a sticky mess.
Shop Therapy
I’m something of a whore for cute, trendy shops, so the bright orange facade and stylish window displays at Therapy (545 Valencia Street) definitely catch my attention. On one side, Therapy is a furniture, design, and decor store — if I ever buy a house in San Francisco, I’m shopping here. The other side of Therapy is a clothing, jewelry, accessories, and more store. Need a pair of Toms shoes? A cute bag? The perfect card to send home to tell all your friends about the Mission? Stop here.
There are a few other boutiques in the same block of Valencia, including a couple of other cool used furniture shops. You might not be able to take your dream couch home, but it’s still fun to look, right?
Murals and the Multi-Ethnic Mission
Walking through the Mission, it’s hard not to notice the murals. They are, literally, everywhere. There are whole alleys completely lined with them, and buildings with side or front facades covered in colorful artwork.
You don’t need a tour to find the murals — but since a handful of them are offered, some for free, we decide join one in hopes of learning more about the people painted all over the walls.
We join a free SF City Guides tour called "Murals and the Multi-Ethnic Mission," which runs two Sundays a month starting at the Women’s Building (3543 18th Street), which itself is covered in four-story murals of powerful local women and the goddesses of different cultures. At another building — the Bethany Center (580 Capp Street) — we see an eight-story mural showing various residents of the senior housing center inside. Along the way, our guide points out images depicting local residents, political messages, and even letters of the alphabet.
The most well known mural tours are offered by Precita Eyes. They cost $12-$15 and cover several different parts of the Mission. If you stop by their visitor center (2981 24th Street), you can pick up a self-guided tour for $1.
Picnic in the Park
A Mission resident friend told me that Bi-Rite Market (3639 18th Street), a block from Dolores Park, is her favorite market ever — so of course we have to stop here to grab sandwiches on our way to the park. The popularity of this place is clear right off the bat — we can hardly move in the crowd of people ordering sandwiches and picking up bottles of wine. Bi-Rite’s Ice Creamery across the street has a line the length of the block. Nearby Tartine Bakery and Cafe (600 Guerrero Street) is similarly packed.
Obviously, we aren’t the only picnickers. That fact becomes even clearer as we round the corner to Dolores Park with our food — the hillside facing Mission High School is covered in people, some in bikinis, others tossing Frisbees. It looks more like the Fourth of July than a random Sunday, but we manage to find a shady spot at the top of the hill.
Everybody loves the Mission!
Another Margarita, Please
Somewhere between the park and Mission Dolores (3321 16th Street) — the 18th century Spanish mission that predates San Francisco — we decide that the best remedy for tired feet includes ice, lime, and tequila. We stop in at Puerto Alegre (546 Valencia Street), a popular spot for Mexican food and margaritas, and order guacamole and a pair — each — of curative cocktails.
Ah, mission complete.
Planning Your Trip
The Mission District is closest to the San Francisco City Center Hostel, but it’s also an easy bus or BART ride from the Fisherman’s Wharf and Downtown hostels.
By BART, the 16th Street station is one stop after the Civic Center station (near the San Francisco City Center Hostel), or two from the Powell station (near the Downtown Hostel). By bus from the City Center or Downtown hostels, hop on a southbound MUNI-14. From the Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel, catch a southbound MUNI-49.
Reserving your stay at any one of these hostels is easy do to online.
A few other Dolores Park-area highlights to check out include:
Monk’s Kettle (3141 16th Street) — Specializes in craft beers, but also serves food. It’s packed at night, but good for an afternoon stop.
Roxie Cinema (3117 16th Street) — Showing independent and foreign films.
Ti Couz (3108 16th Street) — Popular for sweet and savory crepes at any time of day.
Luna Park (694 Valencia Street) — Bistro with excellent food at a reasonable price.
Mission Arts Trail Guide (download here) — A map of galleries, art spaces, and cultural venues throughout the Mission District.
The Golden Fire Hydrant (20th Street at Church Street) — Legend has it that during the Great Earthquake and Fire, this was the only fire hydrant in the neighborhood that kept working. If you look carefully, you’ll see that the buildings to the north are newer, while the buildings to the south predate the 1906 disaster. Every year, the hydrant is painted gold to commemorate the battle between man and fire.
This story was written by Sarah Trent, the marketing and communications coordinator for HI’s Northern California hostels. Sarah is new to the Bay Area and lives in Oakland, but as of writing this would love to move to the Mission!